Converse and Gramicci debut hemp denim All Star J in Japan

The heel name tag, the washed hemp-denim upper and the Made in Japan build make this All Star J feel less like a basic sneaker and more like a carefully edited object. Converse and Gramicci will release the ALL STAR J HEMP DENIM OX / GRAMICCI on May 14 in Japan, in Navy, at ¥26,400 including tax, a price that puts it firmly in premium, collector territory.

The shoe sits on Converse’s MADE IN JAPAN ALL STAR J base, the brand’s elevated take on the sneaker that first appeared in 1917 and remains the backbone for Japan-only and special-edition projects. Here, Gramicci uses the model’s 1980s-era last, which gives the shoe a more nostalgic shape than a standard low-top canvas All Star. The result should read cleaner and slightly more old-school, with the kind of proportions that streetwear buyers notice immediately.

Material is the real story. The upper is a washed Japanese hemp-blend denim made from 82 percent cotton and 18 percent hemp, a combination that gives the sneaker a sturdier, more tactile finish than plain twill or canvas. Gramicci leans hard into the fabric choice, noting hemp’s durability and its lower water needs, which folds the collaboration neatly into the brand’s outdoor-minded sustainability language. The ecru tape, matte silver eyelets, Gramicci logos on the tongue and insole, and heel name tag sharpen the finish without overcomplicating it.

The collaboration also carries a very specific Gramicci backstory. The brand says it marks one year since the opening of its Harajuku flagship, and the design reaches back to founder Mike Graham and the Yosemite climbing scene that shaped Gramicci in the 1970s and 1980s. That reference matters because it keeps the shoe from feeling like a simple logo swap. It is built for people who understand both brands: Converse loyalists who already buy Japan-made pairs, and Gramicci customers who want their outdoor heritage translated into something they can wear on city pavement.

At ¥26,400, the All Star J Hemp Denim Ox is not chasing the everyday sneaker shopper. It is for the buyer who wants provenance, texture and a story that holds up under scrutiny. In a market crowded with retro revivals, this one earns its place by making the familiar feel materially different.