Kei Ninomiya pushes Dover Street Market into punk territory in Florence

Kei Ninomiya brought Dover Street Market into full punk territory at Pitti Uomo 110, turning the former Sant’Orsola convent in Florence into an immersive showroom for DSM Kei Ninomiya’s guest-designer runway. The collection, titled OUR PUNK, mixed tartan kilts, parachute pants, safety-pin detailing, Schott leather and footwear from George Cox and OTW by Vans into a lineup that felt built for the street, not the archive.

The show took place on June 17 at 22:00 during Pitti Uomo 110, which ran in Florence from June 16 to 19, 2026. Pitti Immagine positioned DSM Kei Ninomiya as a new Dover Street Market label launched in June 2025 with SS26, designed as a category-fluid vessel for creative experimentation. In practice, that meant Ninomiya stretched his own language beyond the sculptural noir kei ninomiya code and into something looser, tougher and easier to imagine outside the runway.

The references came fast and sharp. Jamie Reid graphics threaded through the collection, alongside material connected to the Judy Blame Charitable Trust, a fitting pairing for a line interested in punk’s visual provocations as much as its clothes. Reid, the artist behind the Sex Pistols’ “God Save the Queen” identity, gave the show its anti-establishment edge; the Judy Blame trust, which preserves and promotes the late stylist’s work while supporting emerging designers and artists, added another layer of subcultural memory. Pretty Relics rounded out the collaborations, but the clothes themselves did the loudest talking.

Ninomiya said Florence felt “both its historic, solemn side and its open, welcoming atmosphere,” adding, “I am honoured to have been given this opportunity.” Francesca Tacconi, Pitti’s special events coordinator, described the DSM line as “inclusive, ageless and agender,” a useful shorthand for what made the collection feel current rather than nostalgic. The best pieces had the blunt utility of streetwear with the charge of punk history: tartan softened into styling fodder, parachute volumes kept the silhouette moving, and hardware turned decoration into attitude.

For Dover Street Market’s global, fashion-obsessed customer, that is the real shift. DSM Kei Ninomiya did not just borrow punk’s imagery; it translated rebellion into a wearable menswear language, one that looks ready to move from Florence into styling racks, retail floors and the next wave of streetwear collections.