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Procell and Nike turn Total 90 Heirloom into plaid vintage sneaker

Procell wraps Nike’s Total 90 Heirloom in chestnut plaid, brown patent and plastic-sealed bouclé, turning a football reboot into a thrift-store flex.

Mia Chen··2 min read
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Procell and Nike turn Total 90 Heirloom into plaid vintage sneaker
Source: highsnobiety.com

The Total 90 Heirloom does not look like a clean nostalgia play. It looks like it spent years on a Bowery shelf, then got pulled into the present with chestnut-brown-and-green plaid, brown patent leather overlays, and a sealed, bouclé-textured upper that reads like vintage couch upholstery under plastic.

That is exactly why the Procell treatment hits harder than a standard football-core revival. Nike has been pushing Total 90 back into the conversation ahead of the World Cup, but Procell gives the silhouette a more believable streetwear life. The shoe is tied to the 2002 Total 90 III and the original Total 90 football-boot lineage, yet the styling language is pure Lower East Side: worn-in, a little eccentric, and proudly sourced from the kind of shop where texture matters as much as hype.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

Liim fronts the campaign, and that choice makes sense. The New York rapper gives the project local weight, not polished-brand gloss. Procell has always sold a specific kind of taste, the kind that can turn a thrift-store instinct into status. That is the point here. Distressed nostalgia looks different when it comes from a respected vintage retailer at 5 Delancey St. in New York, NY. Nike can manufacture the memory. Procell makes it feel found.

The release is set for May 16, 2026, at Procell and select Nike stockists, with a reported retail price of $125 and style code IQ5794-237. One report also says Procell confirmed an in-person launch by phone through the number attached to its Instagram teaser, which only sharpens the sense that this pair is meant to be picked up like a local grail, not ordered like a commodity. Sneaker outlets have already framed the shoe as “Heirloom,” and the name fits: this is football heritage translated through a vintage dealer’s eye.

It is also Procell’s second footwear collaboration with Nike, following the 2019 project that included an Air Force 1 Low in “Muslin-Desert Ore” and a Blazer Low pack. The new pair feels more pointed than that earlier work. The plaid, the patent shine, the plastic wrap effect, all of it pushes past retro for retro’s sake. This is the kind of sneaker that only works if you believe the store behind it has taste before the brand does, and Procell has built exactly that kind of authority.

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