Rick Owens returns to adidas with climate-ready runway and new runner
Rick Owens’ STONE show turned a Paris heatwave into runway theater, pairing fan-inflated adidas ClimaCool shells with a 2027 runner and a decade-late reunion.
Rick Owens’ SS27 menswear show at the Palais de Tokyo turned a sweltering Paris Men’s Fashion Week slot into a full-scale preview of where avant-garde sportswear is headed: fan-inflated adidas ClimaCool outerwear, latex tops, architectural chaps and a new angular runner set for 2027. Titled STONE, the collection made the heat feel like part of the design language, not just the backdrop.
Owens shifted the presentation to a 10 a.m. slot to help guests and models deal with the Paris heatwave, and the result played like climate theater with a clear product edge. WWD cast the show as a metaphor for climate catastrophe, while the adidas pieces pushed beyond styling into function. The inflatable windbreakers and other ClimaCool garments were designed to reduce a runner’s core temperature before a marathon, and Owens called the idea “performance under pressure.”
The runway’s most wearable headline, at least in commercial terms, was the new high-performance running shoe Owens introduced for adidas. It has the sharp, angular profile that has always made his footwear feel less like a trainer and more like an object with attitude, and it is due out in 2027. The inflated outerwear was the spectacle, but the runner is the piece with the clearest path from showpiece to streetwear shelf once adidas translates the idea for retail.
The reunion matters because Rick Owens and adidas had not worked together since 2017, closing a run that began in 2013 or 2014 depending on how the season is framed. That earlier partnership produced some of the most recognizable designer-sportswear silhouettes of its era, including the Runner, Mastodon, Springblade and boot-like takes on adidas shapes. SS27 extends that lineage rather than restarting from scratch, returning to the same tension Owens has mined for more than a decade: athletic gear made severe, sculptural and just a little bit dangerous.
In that sense, STONE was less a nostalgia lap than a reminder that Owens can still turn a sportswear collaboration into something that feels both technically plausible and visually extreme.
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