Street style at Pitti Uomo 110 spotlights Florence menswear looks

The sharpest thing about Pitti Uomo 110 was not the peacocking, but the way it translated into usable clothes. Florence’s streets turned up safari jackets, lighter tailoring, and sport-driven layers that could move from the fairground to real life without losing their nerve.

What Florence was really showing

Pitti Uomo 110 ran from June 16 to 19 at the Fortezza da Basso, with more than 720 brands from over 30 countries feeding the usual swirl of buyers, editors, and well-dressed regulars. WWD’s street-style gallery from June 17 captured the atmosphere outside the booths, and the point of it all was clear: Florence remains the place where menswear’s next move is tested in public, not just on a runway.

Pitti’s own framing helps explain why the street style matters so much. The fair’s summer theme, The Pool, centers on a modern Narcissus in a dark, elegant, lightweight suit, with volumes and accessories that nod to reflection rather than rigidity. That mood is echoed in the fair’s key sections, especially Dynamic Attitude, which is anchored in sportswear and streetwear, and Superstyling, which pushes new silhouettes and genderless cuts.

1. The safari jacket is the one to watch

If there was a single silhouette with real streetwear mileage, it was the safari jacket. Monocle’s read from the fair was blunt: it is “time to invest in a safari jacket,” especially the pocket-forward versions cinched neatly at the waist, whether in navy linen or a classic beige take. That shape works because it is practical first and styled second, which is exactly why it can travel beyond Florence and into everyday wardrobes now.

The trick is restraint. On the street, the jacket should feel like an outer layer, not a costume piece, so keep the pockets and structure but let the rest fall easy, with T-shirts, loose trousers, or pared-back shorts. What feels like trade-show theater is the full Pitti finish: the straw boater hat and leather briefcase that Monocle suggested for maximum flair. Those details are great for a photograph; they are less convincing on a city commute.

2. Tailoring gets lighter, softer, and easier to wear

The most useful tailoring at Pitti was not stiff or ceremonial. The Pool campaign’s modern Narcissus wears a lightweight suit, and the image is less about formal business dressing than about controlled ease, a suit that breathes and moves. That idea sits comfortably beside the fair’s broader focus on contemporary menswear and the kind of polished but unforced dressing that keeps showing up in Florence.

For streetwear, that means one thing: keep the architecture, lose the heaviness. Soft shoulders, fluid trousers, and jackets that skim rather than armor the body are the parts worth borrowing now. The more ornate version of this, with exaggerated volumes and accessories stacked for effect, belongs closer to the Pitti entrance than to daily rotation.

3. Sport and tailoring are no longer opposites

Pitti’s Dynamic Attitude section is built around movement, and that matters because it is where the fair stops speaking only to classic menswear and starts talking to how people actually live. The section is described by Pitti as sportswear and streetwear with a technological core, often softened by subtle vintage references, which is exactly the crossover language that keeps streetwear relevant when pure hype starts to feel thin.

The best street looks at Florence understood that balance. This season also showed a slip-on turn in footwear, with suede loafers and boat shoes continuing their run, according to Level Shoes, which is a useful signal for anyone tired of overbuilt sneakers. The idea is not to abandon sport entirely, but to make it cleaner and more adult, with shoes that read relaxed rather than precious.

4. Proportion is the new decoration

Simone Rocha’s first independent menswear collection at Pitti sharpened another important signal: proportion still does the heavy lifting, even when the clothes are playful. Monocle noted Rocha’s signature whimsy, oversized proportions, and intricate embellishments, and that combination gives Florence its tension between elegance and theatricality. For streetwear, the lesson is useful even if the embellishment is not.

The part worth borrowing is the looseness. Bigger shapes, roomier layers, and clothing that gives the body space are all transferable now, especially when the palette stays disciplined. The part to skip, unless you are dressing for a camera, is the full decorative finish. Streetwear is strongest at Pitti when it borrows the silhouette language and leaves the excess behind.

What to wear, what to skip

• Wear now: safari jackets with patch pockets, ideally in linen or another light fabric, worn with a cinched waist and relaxed bottoms.

• Wear now: lighter tailoring that behaves like outerwear, with soft structure instead of boardroom stiffness.

• Wear now: suede loafers or boat shoes when you want the more grown-up end of the slip-on trend.

• Skip for now: the full Pitti costume effect, meaning the straw boater, the leather briefcase, and the more obvious peacock energy. Those pieces look best as accents, not a whole identity.

• Keep in rotation: oversized proportions and easy layering, but strip away the embellishment if you want the look to land on the street.

That is the real Pitti lesson this season: the strongest street style was not trying to out-shout the fair, but to refine it into something wearable. Florence keeps proving that menswear moves forward fastest when utility, tailoring, and a little swagger are allowed to share the same frame.