Robinson Pelham marks 30 years with nostalgic gemstone collection

Pink, turquoise and green enamel gave Robinson Pelham’s 30th-anniversary collection a flash of ’90s candy-color nostalgia, but the sharper idea was how easily those jewels could sit with the birthstone pieces readers already own. Summer of ’96, the first chapter of the brand’s year-long Bold Since ’96 celebration, mixed jointed necklaces and bracelets with archival-inspired designs set with emeralds and pink sapphires, then pushed them into a more casual summer register that felt less occasion-only and more lived-in.

The collection was shot in Mallorca by Buzz White and built around the ease, energy and attitude of a 90s summer, with the brand leaning into images of slow mornings, poolside color, golden-hour jewelry and nights that begin before sunset. Robinson Pelham showed new design families, including Nirvana, Meteor, Treble, Solstice, Boudicca, Gloria, Kinetic, Paragon, Arma and Duo, alongside additions to existing lines such as Daystar, Arena, Jupe and Utopia. For readers who wear birthstones month after month, the appeal is clear: the palette is bright enough to feel current, while the jointed construction makes the pieces behave almost like modular links, easy to stack with a solitaire pendant, a family ring or a single-stone bracelet already in rotation.

That flexibility matters because Robinson Pelham has always sold craftsmanship as much as mood. Founded in London in 1996 by Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon and Kate Pelham Burn, the business began as a bespoke jeweler in Pimlico and now has a Chelsea shop on Elystan Street, with retail partners including Goop, Marissa Collections, The Vault Nantucket, Ylang Ylang, Elizabeth Anthony, Susan Saffron and Reinhold. The founders still personally source stones from around the world, and Benyon’s gemological credentials, FGA and DGA, helped shape a house known for working across a broad spectrum, from Paraiba tourmalines to brown diamonds. That matters when the collection pairs emeralds and pink sapphires with enamel, because the stones are not decoration pasted on top of a trend. They anchor the color story.

The anniversary also underlined how Robinson Pelham understands its own archive. The brand said it showed new collections alongside pieces borrowed back from longtime customers, a smart move for a house that once marked its 25th year with an Ear Menu of 13 hoops, four sizes and 120 charms, or EarWishes, adding up to more than 6,000 combinations. For 2026, the message was simpler and stronger: celebrate the ’90s, but do not get trapped in them. In this collection, birthstone jewelry looked less formal, more personal and ready for summer.