Bvlgari Debuts Eclettica High Jewellery Collection in Milan With 160 Creations

There is a necklace in Bvlgari's new Eclettica collection that may once have graced an Indian maharaja. The Serpenti Imperial Heart centers on a 30.75-carat Golconda-type diamond graded D-IF, a category of stone so rare and pure it represents a fraction of a percent of all diamonds ever recovered, set into the head of an articulated serpent assembled from 180 individual elements and more than 1,400 hours of work. That single piece signals where Bvlgari has taken its high jewellery for 2026.

Eclettica was unveiled on March 23 in Milan, where Bvlgari spread the presentation across two historic properties: Villa Arconati and Villa Necchi Campiglio. The collection numbers 160 creations and draws on three artistic pillars: painting, architecture, and sculpture. Its high jewellery includes 15 transformable designs, the highest count the Maison has ever presented in a single collection, alongside more than 50 millionaire masterpieces and nine Capolavori at the apex.

Jewellery creative director Lucia Silvestri described the collection's ethos directly: "I have often sought to define Bvlgari in just a few words, and 'eclectic' is undoubtedly one of them. It is a quality intrinsically woven into the maison's DNA since our very origins."

Five pieces from the Capolavori already carry the specific qualities that define future collectibles: extreme rarity, photogenic drama, and craftsmanship numbers that demand attention.

The Seres Scarf necklace assembles more than 1,180 individual components over 1,600 hours of work, draping around the neck with the fluid ease of woven fabric. Its sapphires and emeralds draw from the Art Deco portraits of Tamara de Lempicka, and at its center sits a detachable brooch holding a sculptural 31.90-carat sugarloaf sapphire from Sri Lanka. The brooch removes entirely, giving the piece three distinct configurations.

The Secret Garden necklace is built around a rare 26.65-carat padparadscha sapphire from Sri Lanka, prized for its unusual mix of pink and orange. According to Silvestri, the stone was the starting point for the entire piece, with baguette diamonds, onyx, violet sapphires, and cabochon emeralds arranged to serve the gem rather than compete with it.

For pure technical bravado, the Serpenti Infinia bracelet in white gold is the piece that stops craftspeople cold. Of its 1,800 total craftsmanship hours, 1,385 were devoted exclusively to diamond cutting, including a one-of-a-kind 7.49-carat stone developed specifically for this piece that sits in the head of the snake. That proportion, more than three-quarters of total labor spent on cutting alone, reflects the precision demand of the serpent's articulated body.

The Serpenti Illusio necklace plays with perception, revealing its serpent not through solid form but in the negative space between flowing contours, a bas-relief of diamonds that reads as abstract geometry before the silhouette resolves. At its core sits a 14.01-carat sapphire in a serpent silhouette, crafted from 235 elements over 1,300 hours. Priyanka Chopra Jonas wore this piece at the 98th Academy Awards before the Milan launch, making it the most widely photographed item in the collection before it was officially shown.

The Eclectic Embrace collar translates the mosaic patterns of Sammezzano Castle into a layered arrangement of diamonds, emeralds, and onyx, centered on a 10.12-carat Colombian emerald. Its approximately 180 modular elements are engineered to let what appears rigid move naturally around the neck, a structural logic that runs through several of the Capolavori and shapes the collection's defining tension between architecture and wearability.

The direction these pieces set at the highest tier will influence what collectors actually buy season over season. Eclettica's 15 transformable designs reflect a clear collector logic: pieces that convert from necklace to brooch, or from clutch clasp to pendant, offer versatility that justifies the investment at ultra-high levels. The Serpenti Spira cuff, set with white and yellow diamonds in a silhouette that resembles a Roman column, features a writhing serpent and a 5.08-carat Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond. It distills the sculptural language of the Capolavori into something calibrated for serious collectors who want to wear their jewellery rather than archive it.

The Incontro Segreto ring revisits the toi et moi format that Bvlgari has explored since the 1980s, pairing a 7.85-carat stone with a complementary gem. It is the piece most likely to appear alongside solitaires from rival houses on a bridal short-list, carrying the sculptural confidence of the Capolavori while fitting the scale of everyday fine jewellery.

Eclettica extends beyond jewellery to 10 one-of-a-kind high jewellery bags: Divas' Dream minaudières explore Art Deco geometry, Dragone top-handle bags play with bold colour, and Serpenti Original clutches carry jewelled closures that detach for wear as necklaces or brooches. Three jewellery watches complete the collection: the Notte Stellata Divas' Dream, with a black opal dial set to evoke a Roman night sky; the Pavone, built around a peacock motif; and the Serpenti Dea Secret, with a concealed dial. All three are powered by Bvlgari's Piccolissimo micro-movements.

Six Carrara marble and gold-leaf sculptures by Venetian artist Riccardo Gatti served as artistic plinths for the high jewellery highlights at the Milan presentation, where guests including Anne Hathaway and Dua Lipa moved between the two villas for theatrical shows and immersive installations.

CEO Jean-Christophe Babin positioned the collection within the brand's Roman identity: "Rome itself is eclectic, a place where centuries of art coexist, inspire each other and constantly generate new beauty. Eclettica distills this spirit: different worlds, different arts, converging into one unmistakably Bvlgari creative language." In a market where craftsmanship claims are frequently vague, the decision to publish precise hour counts across the Capolavori is itself a provenance statement, one that collectors with long memories will note.