Jacob & Co. Patents 37-Facet Angel Cut Diamond for $3.4M Billionaire Tourbillon

Jacob Arabo spent two years developing a new diamond cut. The 37 facets he chose were motivated by optics and marriage in equal measure.

The result is the Angel Cut, Jacob & Co.'s patented proprietary diamond geometry now making its debut on the Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut, a $3.4 million timepiece released in a limited run of 18 watches to mark the brand's 40th anniversary. The cut is named for Arabo's wife, Angela; the facet count corresponds to 37 years of their marriage. "The fact that the cut has 37 facets, coinciding with 37 years of marriage with my wife Angela, gave it an even deeper meaning for me personally," Arabo said.

The personal meaning does not diminish the technical ambition. The Angel Cut carries a lozenge-shaped table, a stepped rectangular outline, and cut corners, a geometry developed entirely in-house to improve light return across a rectangular stone while preserving yield and elegance. Although the facet count sits well below some complex modern cuts, the company's own 288-facet Jacob Cut, introduced 12 years prior, is the direct predecessor — each Angel Cut facet is positioned to produce what Jacob & Co. describes as "a visual effect that is at once crisp, fluid and unusually dimensional." "We were not interested in creating another variation on an existing theme," said Arabo, founder and chairman of Jacob & Co. "It had to be a true invention: something more versatile, more radiant and more refined."

On the Billionaire Double Tourbillon, the cut appears 216 times across a 54 x 41 mm white gold case. The breakdown is precise: 98 Angel-cut diamonds in the case total over 51 carats; the dial carries 88 more; and 30 are invisibly set on the clasp. The remaining stones in the watch's 297-diamond total are emerald cuts, 80 of which frame the twin flying tourbillons positioned at 12 and 6 o'clock. Published carat totals diverge by source, with WWD citing 79 carats for the piece overall and JCK reporting over 80 carats of white diamonds blanketing it; Jacob & Co. has not publicly reconciled the figures.

Beneath the gem-set surface, the JCAM50 movement runs on 460 components with a 72-hour power reserve. The 54 x 41 mm case keeps the watch within the Billionaire collection's established scale, though earlier editions of that line featured hundreds of emerald-cut diamonds totaling over 100 carats, placing the Angel Cut introduction as a geometric innovation layered onto an already extravagant foundation.

Jacob & Co. has filed a patent on the Angel Cut geometry, though no patent number or jurisdiction has been publicly disclosed. For a brand that built its identity on gem-intensive spectacle, adding a proprietary cut to the portfolio represents a different kind of credibility claim: one that lives not in total carats but in the architecture of each individual stone.