Pomellato unveils Stile Libero high-jewelry collection in Paris

Pomellato unveiled Stile Libero in Paris, a 65-piece high-jewelry collection built around the idea that jewelry can move as freely as personal style. The launch sat alongside the maison’s first Paris exhibition, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire, at the Palais de Tokyo, turning the city into a stage for Pomellato’s 1967 Milanese identity and its long insistence on self-expression.

Stile Libero is divided into three chapters, Visionary Colors, Magnetic Gold and Hypnotic Shadows, and that structure says a great deal about where the collection is pushing diamond design. Rather than treating diamonds as the only star, Pomellato uses white and brown stones as part of a broader chromatic vocabulary, pairing them with vivid gems and sculptural gold to loosen the hierarchy of the traditional high-jewelry suite. The result feels less ceremonial than many diamond collections and more fluid, with color, surface and light working together instead of competing for attention. The brand links that attitude to Milan in the 1960s, when Pino Rabolini and his circle broke from strict fashion, art and style conventions.

The strongest pieces make that point with precision. Mandala Chromia is a medallion necklace set with 99 multicolored natural sapphires framed by brown diamonds, a combination that gives the diamond border the role of architectural outline rather than center stone. Rainbow Supreme takes the river necklace format and stretches it into a 157-carat line of 68 round-cut tourmalines, underscoring Pomellato’s comfort with mixed color and mixed cuts. Another choker in the collection features 21 pear-shaped Paraíba tourmalines totaling 20.15 carats, a striking example of how the maison is leaning into saturated color instead of conventional all-diamond symmetry.

That freer approach was the point of the Paris presentation. Vincenzo Castaldo, Pomellato’s creative director, framed the collection as a rejection of rigid narratives and a blend of skills and mastery, a language that matches the way the pieces move between jewelry disciplines rather than staying in one lane. The guest list, which included Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, Kerry Washington and Amelia Gray, placed the collection squarely at the intersection of high jewelry, fashion and celebrity, where Pomellato has always felt most at home. With Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire tracing the maison’s revolutions in style, craftsmanship, color, image and women, Stile Libero reads as both a heritage statement and a preview of where diamond jewelry is headed: less formulaic, more chromatic, and far less afraid of mixing materials on purpose.