2026 GEM Awards Celebrate Ana Khouri, London Jewelers, and Rising Jewelry Talent

Jewelers of America's 24th annual GEM Awards convened at Cipriani 42nd Street on March 13, honoring five categories of excellence across design, media, retail, and legacy. The evening's most closely watched moment belonged to Ana Khouri, whose New York-based house took home the GEM Award for High Jewelry Excellence, considered one of the most prestigious distinctions in the industry.

Amanda Gizzi, Jewelers of America's senior vice president of corporate affairs, framed the honor in precise terms: "Through a sculptural approach rooted in fine art, Ana Khouri has established a distinct and influential voice within high jewelry, defined by exceptional craftsmanship and ethical materials. Ana Khouri's work continues to elevate the category, offering designs that resonate deeply with collectors while expanding the boundaries of what high jewelry can be."

Khouri founded her eponymous brand in 2002, and the house opened its New York salon in 2013. Her work has since been presented in solo exhibitions at Phillips, Sotheby's, and Christie's, as well as at TEFAF New York, a credentialing arc that places her squarely in the fine art world rather than the conventional jewelry market. One-of-a-kind pieces are shown exclusively at the New York salon; numbered limited editions are distributed through The Row worldwide. Every piece in the collection is made with 18K Fairmined gold, platinum, and ethically and responsibly sourced gemstones, a commitment that runs through the brand's entire output rather than appearing as a selective marketing note.

The GEM Award for Lifetime Achievement, presented last and carrying the weight of a closing argument, went to Mark and Candy Udell of London Jewelers, which is celebrating its centennial in 2026. Verdura's James Haag introduced the couple, drawing on three decades of personal acquaintance. "They radiated warmth and familiarity and it was like love at first sight," Haag said. "Over the years, just by being close to them I learned everything from them: first and foremost, importantly, always do the right thing. Gain people's trust, guard that trust with your life, build a sense of community around you, and take the 300 people who work with you along for the ride." Mark Udell, the chief executive officer who joined the business founded by his grandfather in 1973, has grown it to 18 stores.

Brazil-based jeweler Silvia Furmanovich received the GEM Award for Jewelry Design, and her acceptance remarks captured something essential about her practice. "Every piece is the result of many cultures in many traditions coming together. Over the years, I have had the privilege of working with extraordinary artists around the world, from masters in the Amazon to embroidery in India," she said. "They are the keepers of these beautiful traditions. Together, we transform materials, techniques and stories into something new in a world that sometimes feels full of discord. I believe creativity has a quiet but powerful way to bring people together."

The GEM Award for Media Excellence was presented by previous honoree Sam Broekema to Thomas Waller, WWD's senior fashion market editor of accessories. A $50,000 grant plus mentorship from the Yurman team went to Johnny Nelson, who accepted with characteristic brevity: "I'm very grateful to receive this mentorship and to receive this grant. I'm grateful to have a mentor like David Yurman to trust in my mission."

The GEM Awards, organized annually by Jewelers of America, exist to honor work that raises the visibility and status of fine jewelry and watches. This year's roster made a coherent argument: that the field's most enduring voices share an ethic of craft, collaboration, and accountability that runs deeper than any single collection.