Pomellato unveils Stile Libero and Paris exhibition on self-expression

Pomellato brought Stile Libero to Paris with more than 60 high-jewelry creations, pairing the collection with its first public exhibition at the Palais de Tokyo. The effect was less a product launch than a declaration of identity: bold colour, sculptural form and a language of self-expression that the Milanese house has spent nearly six decades refining.

The exhibition, Pomellato, Le Joaillier Révolutionnaire, ran from June 24 to July 20, 2026, after a private preview on June 23. Curated by Alba Cappellieri, professor and head of jewellery design at Politecnico di Milano, it was framed as a "living archive" rather than a traditional retrospective. Five themes anchored the presentation, image, craftsmanship, style, colour and women, with archival creations, contemporary collections, signature gold chains, sculptural pieces and the Nudo collection laid out alongside photographs by Gian Paolo Barbieri, Helmut Newton, Herb Ritts, Albert Watson, Lord Snowdon and Michel Comte.

Stile Libero was the sharper, more immediate half of the story. Pomellato described the line as celebrating freedom as a style statement, rooted in Milanese elegance and in a plural, determined, evolving vision of femininity that has defined the house since its founding in Milan in 1967. The collection’s appeal lies in that tension: it is high jewelry, but not stiff, and its strongest gestures come through in vibrant colours and bold volumes rather than in overt display. Creative director Vincenzo Castaldo has pushed that vocabulary toward a more contemporary register, one that reads as artistic without losing the brand’s familiar ease.

Pomellato’s broader message was equally clear. The Paris presentation reinforced its long-running focus on women who buy for themselves and on personal expression, a position the house has cultivated since Pomellato for Women launched in 2017. That makes the most wearable cues in Stile Libero easy to identify: the gold chains, the sculptural silhouettes and the recurring Nudo references are the motifs most likely to move beyond the Palais de Tokyo and into the wider jewelry conversation. In a market crowded with high-jewelry spectacle, Pomellato chose recognizability over excess, and that restraint gave the launch its force.