Pomellato expands Pentagoni with geometric high-jewelry necklace, bracelet

Pomellato’s Pentagoni collection is finding its most compelling register in motion. The latest high-jewelry necklace and bracelet take the house’s five-sided motif and sharpen it into something leaner and more architectural, where articulated pentagons, rose gold and white-and-brown diamonds create a graphic rhythm rather than the overload often associated with high jewelry.

That balance is what makes the design read as modern. The necklace is positioned as the centerpiece, with pentagons shifting in scale and angle so the jewel falls like a cascading structure across the neckline. The bracelet carries the same sculptural vocabulary to the wrist, translating the motif into a piece that feels engineered rather than merely decorative. Pomellato says the pentagons are set alongside mirror-polished planes and the house’s irregular pavé, a combination that gives the surface depth without softening the geometry into something ornamental.

The palette matters just as much as the form. Pomellato has paired white and brown diamonds with its proprietary rose gold alloy, a choice that gives the high-jewelry pieces warmth and restraint at once. Brown diamonds, especially in this context, work less like contrast stones and more like tonal shading, lending the pieces a smoky, architectural finish. The result is not sparkle for its own sake, but a controlled play of light that suits the minimalist mood now shaping luxury jewelry.

The collection was handcrafted at Casa Pomellato in Milan, where more than 150 artisans work on the house’s jewels each day. That Milanese craft language has long defined Pomellato, founded in the city in 1967 and now part of Kering, and it remains central to the brand’s identity under creative director Vincenzo Castaldo, who has led the house’s design direction for two decades. The Pentagoni line, which debuted last year, has now expanded beyond hero pieces into rings and pendant earrings, with the necklace offered in two variants, signaling a collection built to extend the same geometry across the body.

Pomellato also places the launch inside its sourcing strategy, saying it has achieved 100% responsible gold sourcing and that about 95% of its gold is recycled and RJC Chain of Custody certified. In a market where high jewelry can still default to excess, Pentagoni argues for a different kind of luxury: precise, sculptural and deliberately held in tension between polish and discipline.