Robinson Pelham marks 30 years with 90s-inspired jewelry collection

Robinson Pelham is leaning into its archive with jewelry made to be worn, not merely admired. For its 30th year, the London house launched Summer of ’96, a collection it says is inspired by the ease, energy and attitude of a 90s summer, but the real appeal is practical: slim diamond necklaces, sculptural rings and colorful pieces that stack, layer and move from one generation to the next.

The sharpest buy in the lineup looks to be Treble, which Robinson Pelham says recreates the effect of a triple-pierced ear in a single piece. That kind of design earns its keep because it delivers the styling payoff of multiple earrings without the commitment or the maintenance of additional piercings. Meteor pushes harder into statement territory, with sculptural yellow gold and baguette diamonds given what the brand calls a 90s polish. The Meteor Diamond Ring is priced at £8,990, while Meteor Drop Earrings reach £20,980, a reminder that dramatic movement and diamond weight quickly lift the ticket. Nirvana brings the most color, combining diamonds with vivid enamel in pink, turquoise and green, and it is built to be matched tonally or layered together.

The collection also reflects how Robinson Pelham has grown since its founders, Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon and Kate Pelham Burn, set up the business in 1996. Benyon says she helped launch the company after five years working for stone dealers and jewellers, and the brand says it still sources stones personally from around the world. That hands-on approach matters when the pitch is longevity rather than novelty. Robinson Pelham also offers repairs and revamps, which makes the collection feel more like an heirloom pipeline than a one-season edit.

That long view has been part of the brand’s rise before. JCK has previously traced Robinson Pelham back to a small bespoke salon in 1996, with a Chelsea shop opening in 2012 to house ready-to-wear jewelry, and broader recognition after Kate Middleton wore the brand’s earrings for her 2011 wedding. The company’s current anniversary push continues that formula, mining its own codes and tightening them for everyday use. For buyers looking at minimalist fine jewelry with real staying power, the pieces that matter most are the ones that can be worn alone now, then handed down later without feeling dated.