Briony Raymond’s Carousel collection elevates mother-of-pearl and hard stones

Briony Raymond’s Carousel collection folds mother-of-pearl into a hard-stone mix of onyx, malachite, tiger’s eye, lapis, turquoise and coral, all set in 18-karat yellow gold with diamonds. The result is less a classic pearl look than a sculptural one, with puzzle-like forms that push nacre into sharper, more architectural territory.

The collection is rolling out across necklaces and rings, and the brand’s own pricing places it firmly in high jewelry. On the site, Carousel pieces run from about $6,400 for a Double Mother of Pearl & Diamond Checkerboard Ring to $100,750 for a Turquoise & Diamond Collar, with the Mother of Pearl & Diamond Necklace priced at $36,000. That spread makes the line feel more like a collector’s statement than a broad-market styling trend, even as it points to a wider appetite for pearl-adjacent materials used in cleaner, more graphic settings.

That distinction matters because Carousel is built around contrast. Mother-of-pearl, with its soft iridescence, is being asked to hold its own beside opaque stones and the structural weight of gold and diamonds. In pieces such as the Carousel Mother of Pearl & Diamond Necklace, the brand describes alternating gold bar links with geometric mother-of-pearl inlays and bezel-set diamonds, a formulation that strips the material of sweetness and gives it edge. For readers watching pearls move beyond the traditional strand, this is the relevant shift: not bigger pearls, but pearl surfaces made more modern through shape, spacing and harder companions.

Briony Raymond’s background helps explain why the collection lands with such polish. She founded her New York atelier in 2015 after nearly a decade at Van Cleef & Arpels, and the brand says bespoke pieces are made by hand in New York with standard lead times of about eight to 10 weeks. The atelier sits in Midtown Manhattan’s Fuller Building, a New York City landmark completed in 1929, and the showroom is described as a 4,000-square-foot space. Those details place Carousel squarely in the world of careful workmanship rather than seasonal fashion churn.

The brand’s celebrity following, which has been linked to Beyoncé, Jennifer Lawrence, Ayo Edebiri, Reese Witherspoon, Sarah Jessica Parker, Adele, Rihanna, Bella Hadid, Karlie Kloss and Katy Perry, has helped broaden its profile beyond the trade. But Carousel is not a red-carpet one-off. It extends an existing Briony Raymond language of color, texture and display, using mother-of-pearl not as a nostalgic pearl reference but as one material in a more disciplined, design-forward palette. For now, that makes it an outlier with styling influence, rather than proof that pearl jewelry has fully changed course.