Design

Calms Jewelry unveils bespoke Ripple ring, meeting demand for custom engagement designs

A heptagonal step-cut lab-grown diamond and rippled gold setting put Calms’ bespoke ring at the center of a bigger shift toward personal heirlooms.

Rachel Levy2 min read
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Calms Jewelry unveils bespoke Ripple ring, meeting demand for custom engagement designs
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The most persuasive engagement rings today do more than glitter. They encode a story in the setting itself, and Calms Jewelry’s Ripple ring makes that point with unusual clarity: a one-of-a-kind 18K yellow gold design built around a 1.75-carat IGI-certified lab-grown diamond, cut in a distinctive heptagonal step cut.

Calms describes the piece as reflecting the quiet movement of water, and that sense of motion is built into the ring’s sculptural surface. JCK said the design drew partly from the ribbed rings of the 1980s, but Jennifer O’Brien pushed the idea into something more contemporary and harder to execute. She said the Ripple ring was one of the most time-intensive pieces she has created, and that its form required multiple rounds of refinement to bring visual balance and structural integrity into alignment around the stone. That kind of labor is exactly what separates a bespoke ring from an off-the-shelf solitaire: the stone is still central, but the setting becomes part of the meaning.

Calms, based in New York City, says its jewelry is crafted with recycled 18K gold and platinum, together with lab-grown diamonds. Its bespoke program includes custom engagement rings, heirloom redesign and private commissions, a mix that points to how buyers now think about luxury. The goal is not simply a larger diamond or a more elaborate mount. It is a ring that feels personal from every angle, whether that means a nontraditional cut, a setting that nods to family memory, or a design language rooted in place. O’Brien has also said Calms is rooted in NYC’s Diamond District and inspired by antique heirlooms, nautical symbolism and Art Deco architecture, a combination that gives the brand’s work a recognizably New York accent without slipping into nostalgia.

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The Ripple ring arrives as lab-grown stones have moved firmly into the mainstream of engagement jewelry. The Knot’s 2025 Real Weddings Study found that 52% of couples surveyed had engagement rings featuring lab-grown diamonds, while BriteCo reported that two-thirds of Gen Z engagement ring purchasers opt for lab-grown stones. BriteCo also said the average lab-grown engagement ring center diamond grew from 1.31 carats in 2019 to 2.45 carats in 2025. Against that backdrop, Calms’ ring reads as part of a larger buyer preference: not just for ethical or modern materials, but for designs that feel authored, intimate and memorable enough to become the next family heirloom.

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