LFW AW26 reveals sustainable collections from Paul Costelloe, KseniaSchnaider, Tolu Coker

King Charles III’s surprise front-row appearance gave Tolu Coker’s opener an extra jolt of headline energy, as the British-Nigerian designer presented a Notting Hill–tinged runway at the British Fashion Council NEWGEN space, 180 Strand. VRAI Magazine reported the King was welcomed by BFC CEO Laura Weir and "was given his own chair and silk cushion" while AFP/Getty images captured him seated alongside Stella McCartney on February 19, 2026. TheIndustry.fashion noted that "his attendance marked the first time a senior royal has taken a front-row seat at LFW since 2018."

Tolu Coker’s show doubled as a career moment and a creative mash-up. TheIndustry.fashion called the AW26 line "The Wanderer" and described materials including Icelandic sheepskin in natural rust, grey and black, leather aviator jackets, ripstop, hand-dyed asymmetric knits and shiny metallic pieces. VRAI Magazine, which credited photographer Matt Draper, reported the designer "unveiled a 28-look collection titled ‘Survivor’s Remorse’ filled with flirty dresses, childhood uniform and menswear references, corsetry, and vibrant plaids that lit up the runway." WhoWhatWear summed up the reaction, writing that Coker has "a sharp instinct for the silhouettes London women actually want to wear right now." Both collection titles appear in coverage; press notes are yet to reconcile the discrepancy.

Paul Costelloe’s Autumn/Winter 2026 outing was the first collection staged following the founder’s passing and was framed as a moment of legacy tailoring. Anadolu via Getty Images showed William Costelloe, son of the late designer, posing on the runway after the show on February 19, 2026. BBC commentary highlighted how "his designs created a flattering silhouette, with cinched belts at the waist and structured shoulders heavily peppered across the collection," while TheIndustry.fashion flagged perfectly tailored looks in neutral and brown tones.

KSENIASCHNAIDER continued the season’s sustainability thread with workroom-minded denim and military references. BBC noted the Ukrainian duo Ksenia and Anton Schnaider put sustainability "at the forefront" by showcasing up-cycled and reworked clothes designed for versatility, and singled out double denim and military-inspired looks as the most eye-catching moments. TheIndustry.fashion also pointed to denim reimagined as a recurring season theme.

Eco-designers threaded through the schedule beyond denim. Vin + Omi presented a collection titled "JORD: Bring Back Nature," with coverage fragmenting the presentation around nature, innovation and charity and even a reference to Dame Prue Leith returning to the catwalk. Patrick McDowell staged "The Gaze" at Rambert as a dramatic, performance-led show inspired by George Platt Lynes, where silhouettes carried exaggerated hourglass waists, peplums, pussy-bow blouses, corseted bodices and a palette of black, deep plum and ivory.

Across February 19–20 coverage, photographers from Gamma-Rapho, AFP and Anadolu captured the visual highs while TheIndustry.fashion’s LinkedIn post framed the week as one where "designers across the capital [are] pushing craftsmanship in new and considered directions." LFW AW26 landed as a season where craft, up-cycling and theatrical tailoring shared the spotlight, and the week’s mix of royal attention and material experimentation suggests these looks will ripple beyond the catwalk into wardrobes this autumn and winter.