Photograph your miniatures like a pro - practical photo setup guide

1. Lighting

Good lighting is the foundation of any miniature photograph. Use diffuse daylight‑balanced light in the 5,500–6,500K range or high‑CRI LED panels so colors render accurately and highlights behave predictably. Aim for a two‑point lighting setup (key + fill) to eliminate harsh shadows that hide blending and texture; place the key at ~45 degrees to the model and the fill on the opposite side at lower intensity. Add a third rim or hair light behind the model to separate it from the background and give definition to edges and metallics.

2. Backgrounds & staging

Choose neutral, non‑reflective backgrounds—mid‑gray or subtle black/white gradients are ideal—so the camera exposes the model rather than the scene. Keep staging minimal: a slight base level with rocks or tufts can sell scale and context but stay scaled and unobtrusive so props don’t steal focus from your brushwork. Matte surfaces reduce glare on varnish and metallics; consider a small light tent or scrim to tame specular highlights when photographing glossy finishes.

3. Camera & lens settings

Start by shooting at the camera’s lowest usable ISO to keep images clean and free of noise; ISO 100–200 is ideal on most cameras and larger sensors. Use small apertures (f/8–f/16) to increase depth of field and keep more of the miniature in focus, but be mindful of diffraction on very small sensors—this reduces sharpness if you stop down too far. For true edge‑to‑edge sharpness on small faces and filigree, use focus stacking (capture multiple focus points and combine in software); it’s become the gold standard for competition and gallery work.

4. Tripod & remote triggering

Stabilize your camera with a sturdy tripod and use a remote release or the camera’s self‑timer to avoid shake caused by pressing the shutter. Even with good LED lighting, long exposures from low ISO and small aperture benefit dramatically from this stability. Bracket exposures if lighting isn’t perfect—capture a few frames at different exposures to combine as HDR or choose the best exposure in post if highlights or shadows need rescuing.

5. Colour accuracy & white balance

Set a custom white balance using a gray card and shoot RAW so you can correct color precisely in post without quality loss. If you need absolute color fidelity for tutorials or paint guides, include a small color card in at least one frame of the session so you can match paints to the reference. Consistent white balance session‑to‑session is a small habit that pays off when you’re showing progression shots or comparing paint batches.

6. Composition & angles

Capture a standard set of angles so judges, followers, and clients can properly assess your work: a front or three‑quarter shot for the overall silhouette and color read, a headshot for face and eye detail, a top‑down for basing and layout, and at least one close‑up of any freehand, weathering, or texture work. For contest entries obey the competition’s photo rules—margins, single‑model framing, and file dimensions—so your work isn’t disqualified for avoidable mistakes. Use consistent framing across your gallery so viewers can compare scale and detail without being misled by cropping tricks.

7. Post‑processing basics

Process gently: crop to the competition or web spec, adjust exposure and contrast modestly to match what you saw at the bench, and remove sensor noise without over‑smoothing fine detail. Don’t over‑sharpen; excess sharpening introduces halos and ruins subtle blends. Keep an archival RAW and export a web‑optimized JPEG at 72–150 dpi for social media or galleries; maintain a higher‑quality JPEG or TIFF for prints or official submissions.

• Quick tips:
• Use a light tent or foam core reflectors to soften and shape light economically.
• For metallics, pull a low‑angle key light to show reflections rather than blast them.
• If you’re sharing process shots, include an uncropped reference image showing scale or ruler.

Our two cents? Treat photographing like another step in the paint job—set up once, repeat the same workflow, and you’ll stop losing detail to shadows and overexposure. A consistent lighting and shooting routine not only makes your miniatures look their best, it saves time when submitting to contests or building a portfolio. Keep experimenting, keep the scale honest, and let your brushwork do the talking.