UNDERCOVER x Dickies Drop First Mainline SS26 Capsule Anchored by Eisenhower Jacket

UNDERCOVER and Dickies have quietly rewritten workwear rules with a five-piece Spring/Summer 2026 menswear capsule, the first time the two brands have collaborated on the mainline. Hypebeast frames the season as “but beautiful 4.5… but beautiful for the rebel man,” and reports the capsule is built from Dickies’ signature TC twill so “each garment maintains its renowned durability while introducing experimental tailoring.”

The anchor here is a modified Eisenhower jacket—an archival silhouette with WWII US military pilot uniform roots—reworked into something visibly off-kilter. Highsnobiety catalogues the jacket’s interventions as “curved zip, unevenly placed pockets, and twisted triple-stitched construction,” while shirts, pants, and knee-length work shorts carry squiggly stitching and inside tags moved to the exterior. Vogue places those treatments inside the season’s larger vocabulary, describing the collection’s manipulations as “semantic distortions” and noting that “mismatched buttons, those meandering seams and zippers, exposed pocket silesia, and clothing labels attached on the outside of the garments were all consistent with the plush‑toy program inspired by Dupond: attractive abnormalities in clothing.”

The capsule itself is explicit about pieces and purpose: a modified Eisenhower jacket, matching work pants, work shorts, a long-sleeve work shirt, and a short-sleeve work shirt are the five items named by Hypebeast and Highsnobiety. Traditional Dickies colorways are retained to anchor Jun Takahashi’s deconstructionist moves, and Highsnobiety flags the work shirts’ pockets as a startling reframe—Vogue even writes that “the simple act of making the twin breast pockets of a Dickies work shirt was straightforwardly startling.” Expect the rough heft of TC twill married to curved lines and distorted paneling called out by Hypebeast.

Visually, the campaign puts actor Taiga Nakano front and center; Hypebeast reports Nakano “fronts the official visual campaign, showcasing the refined workwear collection in motion.” Availability is immediate: Hypebeast lists the UNDERCOVER x Dickies Spring/Summer 2026 pieces as “available now” via the official UNDERCOVER online store and select UNDERCOVER brick-and-mortar locations. Vogue notes the wider collection was shown in the showroom, which fits the season’s tactile experimentations and close-up distortions.

Context matters. This Dickies capsule sits inside UNDERCOVER’s broader SS26 “But Beautiful” sequence, which Highsnobiety calls “But Beautiful 4.5” and which totals a 51-look collection where “Nothing was safe from UNDERCOVER's deconstruction across the 51-look collection.” Collaborations with Champion and Vans appear elsewhere in the season—Highsnobiety points to reconstructed and floral-printed Vans sneakers and Champion sweatsuits with mismatched ribbing and wash labels poking out—while Vogue documents Emma Bennett prints and Patti Smith lyrics as motifs running through other pieces.

Taken together, the UNDERCOVER x Dickies capsule does more than badge a name on a jacket; it forces utility into Jun Takahashi’s warped uniform language, keeping Dickies’ factory-floor durability but folding in the “warped & twisted” signatures Highsnobiety calls out and the “attractive abnormalities” Vogue finds compelling.