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Accademia Costume e Moda and Valentino mentor students on couture heritage

At Valentino’s Rome ateliers, 18 master’s students learned couture by balancing Apollonian discipline with Dionysian freedom under Alessandro Michele and Yvan Mispelaere.

Mia Chen··2 min read
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Accademia Costume e Moda and Valentino mentor students on couture heritage
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Inside Valentino’s Rome orbit, the lesson was bigger than a student project. Eighteen master’s students from Accademia Costume e Moda were brought into the house’s ateliers and historical archive at Piazza Mignanelli to wrestle with couture the way Valentino does best: through discipline, invention and a very specific kind of beauty.

The brief asked them to translate the tension between the Apollonian and the Dionysian into research, construction, embroidery and silhouette. That meant months of work, not a neat classroom exercise. Students moved through research, experimentation, garment construction, moulage, embroidery, material manipulation and artisanal craftsmanship, with direct guidance from Alessandro Michele and Yvan Mispelaere from the launch of the brief through mid-review and final presentation.

What made the collaboration hit harder is that Michele is one of Accademia Costume e Moda’s own alumni. That turns the project from a standard brand-school handshake into something more personal, almost cyclical: a designer who came up through the academy now pulling the next generation into Valentino’s world. Santo Costanzo, who heads fashion at Accademia Costume e Moda and coordinates the master’s programme, oversaw the process as the school framed it as a real dialogue with the maison, not a symbolic visit.

The students were not simply told to imitate Valentino’s codes. They were pushed to rethink the house’s identity and heritage, preserving what matters while modernizing the rest. The results leaned into the sort of couture detail that still makes luxury feel worth the trouble: meticulous embroidery, haute couture techniques and delicate silk flowers. In a market where so many houses talk about heritage like a museum label, this one is trying to train people to actually carry it forward.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

That matters because Valentino’s legacy is not abstract. The house was founded in 1960 by Valentino Garavani, and its creative identity is still anchored in Rome. On March 12, 2026, the maison’s Rome-related FW 26/27 activity included a private exhibition of the Haute Couture collection Specula Mundi, another sign of how closely the brand is tying its present to its past. Accademia also pointed back to an earlier Valentino collaboration involving 18 students who developed a capsule collection of at least 10 outfits, proof that this is becoming a pipeline, not a one-off.

In a luxury landscape obsessed with continuity, this is the real asset: not just inherited craft, but a system for teaching it before graduation.

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