Robinson Pelham marks 30 years with wearable ’90s-inspired jewelry

Robinson Pelham used its 30th birthday to make a strong case for the kind of jewelry women actually wear now: pieces that layer easily, catch the light, and keep the drama low even when the design language is bold. The British house launched Bold Since ’96 on Tuesday, beginning a year of celebrations with a campaign shot in Mallorca, Spain, by Buzz White and a new collection that folds archive references into jewelry meant for daily rotation.

Founded in 1996 by Vanessa Chilton, Zoe Benyon and Kate Pelham Burn, Robinson Pelham began as a bespoke jeweler in London and now sits on Elystan Street in Chelsea, with international stockists including Goop, Marissa Collections, The Vault Nantucket, Ylang Ylang, Elizabeth Anthony, Susan Saffron and Reinhold. That footprint matters because the brand’s anniversary story is not just about looking back; it is about proving that the house’s most recognizable ideas still feel current when stripped of ceremony and recast for modern layering.

Chilton said the campaign honors the 1990s without being “subservient” to it, and the distinction is the point. The team borrowed archive pieces back from early customers, placing old and new jewels side by side to show how the brand’s language has evolved. In place of nostalgia, Summer of ’96 leans into the ease, energy and attitude of a ’90s summer, with pink, turquoise and green enamel, sculptural gold and signature diamonds designed to be “worn your way.”

The strongest pieces in the collection read like components of a stack rather than one-note statement jewels. Treble is designed to create the effect of a triple-pierced ear without requiring a third piercing. Nirvana translates into a diamond necklace with the irreverent sweetness of a stick of rock candy or a sugar shoelace. Paragon draws on Roman centurions’ skirts, turning a historical silhouette into a flexible diamond necklace that sits close and moves with the body. Gloria arrives in diamond and rock crystal or blue topaz, bringing color into the mix without losing the collection’s polished edge.

Robinson Pelham also folded in an archival-minded Kinetic earring in 14k gold, set with 2.22 carats total weight of emeralds and 0.57 carat of diamonds, priced at $11,330. That kind of construction, more refined than flashy, explains why the brand’s ’90s references feel less like costume and more like a blueprint for today’s layered look. The anniversary campaign lands as a reminder that the decade’s best jewelry ideas were never about excess alone, but about making fine pieces feel easy enough to live in.