Design

Charlotte Chesnais Opens First International Flagship in Tokyo, Expands Gold Jewelry Line

Charlotte Chesnais planted her first international flagship in Aoyama, pairing her full 18-karat gold line with a gallery-like retail space in Tokyo.

Rachel Levy2 min read
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Charlotte Chesnais Opens First International Flagship in Tokyo, Expands Gold Jewelry Line
Source: wwd.com
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Charlotte Chesnais chose Tokyo’s Aoyama district for the house’s first international flagship, a three-story, 1,100-square-foot space that serves as both boutique and Asia headquarters. The opening matters less as store news than as a clear reading of where luxury jewelry is headed: toward sculptural forms, serious gold content and retail spaces that feel authored rather than merely stocked.

The new address is the largest Charlotte Chesnais has opened to date, at 100 square metres, about three times the size of her Paris boutiques. Designed by Dutch architect Anne Holtrop, a long-time collaborator, the stand-alone four-level unit with underground offices was conceived as a slower, more contemplative environment. Chesnais described the mix of glass and what she jokingly called “Tadao Ando concrete,” while silver-leaf walls are meant to oxidize over time, turning the interior itself into a changing surface.

That same attitude runs through the assortment. The Tokyo store carries the full 18-karat gold collection, alongside selected Silver and Vermeil pieces, and it includes an exclusive one-of-a-kind pair of pearl earrings in 18-karat gold made specifically for the location. In a category increasingly defined by statement silhouettes and material clarity, Chesnais is making the case that 18-karat gold is the label’s most exportable language. Silver and Vermeil broaden the entry point, but the brand’s ambition clearly sits with gold, where the weight, color and permanence align with the sculptural signatures that made her name.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

The move also reflects a business reality Chesnais has been building toward for years. Japan accounts for 15 percent of the brand, behind France at 70 percent across Europe and ahead of the United States at 10 percent, where growth is increasingly driven by e-commerce. Chesnais said she had long wanted a deeper retail presence in Japan, where wholesale partnerships were already strong, and that she had felt a real fan base there since an early inspiration trip with Nicolas Ghesquière during his Balenciaga years. She launched Charlotte Chesnais in 2015, after first creating a stackable cuff while working in ready-to-wear at Balenciaga.

The Tokyo opening brought the brand’s store count to three, including two locations in Paris, and the company has positioned the space as a boutique and a gallery for artists close to the designer. The address is 3 Chome-7-11, Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0061, and it is open Monday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. With this opening, Chesnais has signaled that the strongest luxury jewelry exports right now are not logo-driven novelties, but pieces with shape, substance and a point of view.

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