Design

Briony Raymond’s Carousel collection pairs hardstones with yellow gold and diamonds

Briony Raymond turns hardstones into a modern collector’s language, pairing onyx, malachite and turquoise with yellow gold, diamonds and modular geometry.

Rachel Levy··4 min read
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Briony Raymond’s Carousel collection pairs hardstones with yellow gold and diamonds
Source: nationaljeweler.com

Across 15 styles, yellow gold and diamonds frame onyx, malachite, tiger’s eye, mother-of-pearl, lapis, turquoise, and coral in Briony Raymond’s Carousel collection. The sculptural compositions feel both precise and playful, like jewels built to snap satisfyingly into place.

Hardstone, reintroduced with discipline

Hardstone has a long life in jewelry and the decorative arts, traditionally associated with carved or inlaid materials such as onyx, agate, turquoise, lapis, and malachite. Carousel works squarely within that lineage, but it does not simply borrow from the past. The collection’s palette broadens the category with tiger’s eye, mother-of-pearl, and coral, then sharpens it with 18-karat yellow gold and diamonds so the color reads as deliberate rather than nostalgic.

Hardstone jewelry can veer heavily vintage if the setting is too ornate, or feel trend-driven if the stones are treated like interchangeable color swatches. Raymond avoids both extremes by giving each stone a clear structural role. The gold acts as a frame, the diamonds as punctuation, and the stones as the emotional center of the piece.

The vintage references are there, but they are filtered

Carousel’s strongest combinations echo distinct periods of jewelry history. The checkerboard rings, especially the Double Onyx & Diamond Checkerboard Ring and the Lapis & Diamond Checkerboard Ring, recall Art Deco’s love of geometry and contrast. Their graphic rhythm feels tailored, almost architectural, the kind of surface that rewards a close look more than a glance.

The coral, turquoise, malachite, and lapis combinations push the collection toward the 1970s, when bold color and polished natural materials often met in unapologetically decorative forms. There is also a mid-century calm to the way the pieces are edited: rather than piling on detail, Raymond lets each material hold its own. The collection nods to vintage hardstone jewelry, but the settings are cleaner, the proportions crisper, and the overall effect more refined than retro pastiche.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

Shape matters as much as color

Carousel is built around modular forms, shifting structures, and intricate details. The collection is not trying to imitate a single archive source; it is creating a system of forms that move between ring, earring, and cocktail-jewel territory with ease. That modular quality makes the line feel intelligent, almost puzzle-like, and gives the stones a contemporary rhythm.

Raymond has said the inspiration came from the tactile beauty of analog objects, and you can feel that influence in the collection’s physical logic. These are jewels that seem designed to be handled, turned, and examined.

The rings set the price and the tone

The ring assortment gives the clearest reading of Carousel’s range. Prices on the brand’s site run from $6,400 for the Carousel Double Onyx & Diamond Checkerboard Ring to $18,500 for the Carousel Coral, Mother of Pearl & Diamond Cocktail Ring. In between sits the Carousel Lapis & Diamond Checkerboard Ring at $7,000.

The more graphic checkerboard rings read as the most accessible entry point for a collector who wants a hardstone jewel with clear vintage references. The coral, mother-of-pearl, and diamond cocktail ring is the statement piece: richer, more elaborate, and the most overtly decorative of the group, but still anchored by the discipline of its construction.

The earrings extend the language without repeating it

The earring line keeps the same palette but shifts the emphasis from pattern to silhouette. Carousel Coral & Diamond Earrings and Carousel Turquoise & Diamond Earrings are each priced at $11,850, while the Carousel Malachite & Diamond Earrings and Carousel Lapis & Diamond Earrings are each $11,400. On the site, earrings range from about $10,800 to $17,800.

Here, too, the settings do much of the work. Yellow gold gives the color warmth, while diamonds prevent the stones from feeling overly dense or opaque. That balance is especially effective with malachite and lapis, which are among the most historically resonant hardstones in jewelry because their depth of color remains instantly legible even in compact forms.

A house built on vintage judgment

Briony Raymond New York was founded in 2015 by Briony Raymond, who trained at Van Cleef & Arpels before launching her namesake business. The brand’s offering includes curated vintage jewelry from houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, and Bulgari, and that background helps explain why Carousel feels so controlled.

The brand’s by-appointment atelier sits in Midtown Manhattan’s historic Fuller Building, and its expanded Madison Avenue showroom was designed as a more personalized, salon-style space.

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