Ami mixes tailoring and utility layers for Paris summer heat

Alexandre Mattiussi sent Ami onto a coed runway in Paris on June 24 with a wardrobe that felt tuned for real heat, not just good lighting. Paris Men’s Fashion Week for Spring/Summer 2027 was already running at full tilt, with 74 brands in the schedule, and Ami’s show landed in the former Fondation Cartier building on Boulevard Raspail as temperatures outside reportedly hit 39°C. Guests got branded fans and water. The room needed both.

That setting did half the styling for him. Jean Nouvel’s all-glass building, inaugurated in 1994 and wrapped around a pre-existing garden, made the collection look even more summer-first, with the air inside reading just as punishing as the sun outside. Mattiussi leaned into that pressure with tailoring softened by utility: safari pieces, denim jackets, and, most importantly, a recurring nylon anorak. That is the layer with a future outside the runway. It is light enough for a sweltering commute, functional enough to throw over a shirt and trousers, and stripped of the kind of preciousness that kills a workwear look before noon.

The rest of the collection stayed true to Ami’s familiar “unstudied urban attitude,” which means Mattiussi still knows how to make polish look unforced. The Ami de Coeur heart motif turned up on surf shorts, team jerseys, sweater vests and graphic T-shirts, adding the brand’s easy charm without pretending those pieces are actual workwear. They were the softer, more Paris-fashion parts of the lineup: useful in the sense that they sell a mood, less so in the sense that they solve a wardrobe problem.

What made this outing sharper than a simple city-summer mood board was the way Mattiussi kept tightening the silhouette around function. FashionNetwork had described Ami’s Spring/Summer 2026 show at Place des Victoires as a more romantic, open-air take on Parisian chic, while its Fall/Winter 2026/27 collection in January was framed around precise proportions, clean lines and masterful tailoring. Here, those ideas came back with more weather logic. The tailoring was relaxed, but it never drifted into costume. The utility layers gave the clothes structure and the heat gave them urgency.

Mattiussi called the collection “believable, reliable, comfortable,” and that is exactly where the strongest pieces landed. The nylon anorak, the denim jacket and the safari shapes felt ready to move from runway styling into a summer wardrobe that actually has to work. Mattiussi also used the show to announce Ami’s kids’ wear expansion, for ages four to twelve, set to launch in spring 2027.