Lemaire lightens workwear with airy silhouettes for summer heat
Lemaire turned workwear into summer relief with unlined cotton jackets, paper-thin leather and translucent layers inside the Opéra Bastille heat.
Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran sent Lemaire’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection into an unfinished concert hall at the Opéra Bastille, where workwear shed its weight and became something closer to summer shelter. Under the pressure of a Paris heat wave, the clothes moved lightly: unlined cotton work jackets, softened tailoring, relaxed layering and menswear silhouettes built for ease rather than armor.
The season was a search-and-gather exercise: it “harvests a world of eclectic things” and is shaped by “a renewed sense of idealism.” Featherweight translucent cotton voile and mesh floated across the body, while three-pleat trousers and 1970s pointy-collar shirts kept the outline controlled. Slip dresses brought in a 1990s ease, and the workwear codes stayed visible in coated denim, lacquered surfaces and paper-thin crinkled leather that felt more air-cured than industrial.
Industrial fans pushed air through the unfinished space, and the soundtrack moved from birdsong to traffic. Lemaire’s recent turn toward lighter, more sensual silhouettes showed in the way the clothes treated utility as a matter of temperature and movement. Instead of the dense, structured workwear that has dominated menswear for several seasons, this version opened the jacket, loosened the shoulder and thinned the fabric.
The men’s wardrobe leaned into a warmer vocabulary too, with palm-leaf, ocean and changing-sky prints bringing tropical accents to the mix. Smoked brown, walnut, chalk and sand gave the palette the dusty calm of city heat, while the collaboration with the estate of French illustrator Claudine Wick drew on work that appeared in the 1960s surrealist-erotic magazine Plexus.
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