Songzio softens soldier-inspired workwear with poetic tailoring in Paris

In the basement of Palais de Tokyo, Songzio showed a spring 2027 collection that took military utility and smoothed it into something far more wearable. Khaki-sage set the tone, then citron, berry and ink pushed the label beyond its usual black-and-white base, giving the lineup a sharper pulse without losing its discipline.

Jay Song said the collection began with a specific shade of green he imagined on a fearless, young soldier traveling from the past to warn about an ominous future. That idea ran through layered trousers, overlapping jacket fronts, bias-cut panels and asymmetric draped skirts, all of it built to feel structured but not stiff. Body-hugging pleats undercut the volume, while natural fabrics and asymmetrical drapes softened the harder edges.

Modern jackets carried a deconstructed, almost protective attitude, but the Hanbok influence kept the silhouette fluid and precise rather than rigid. Songzio’s usual avant-garde language was still there, and key pieces included layered trousers, roomy but shaped jackets and draped skirts.

Womenswear took up roughly half of the runway offering. Song said Songzio has greater freedom with women’s looks because women are more adventurous with silhouettes and because the house’s strength lies in pattern and in transforming the body. For a brand founded in Seoul in 1993 by Zio Song, Songzio builds from a black canvas under its Paint on Black approach and frames the work through its broader Order Disorder concept.

Songzio presented on June 24, 2026 during Paris Men’s Fashion Week, which ran from June 23 to June 28 and brought together 74 brands. The house opened a Paris flagship at 10 Rue Charlot in Le Marais and later added a womenswear flagship at the same address.