Robinson Pelham marks 30 years with Bold Since ’96 campaign

Robinson Pelham used its 30th anniversary to argue that the 1990s are back in a more polished, wearable form. The British jeweler launched Bold Since ’96, beginning with Summer of ’96, a Mallorca-shot campaign by Buzz White that put diamond-heavy curves, colored enamel and sculptural gold into an everyday-luxury frame instead of a formal one.

Creative director and cofounder Vanessa Chilton said the campaign honors the ’90s without being “subservient” to it. The brand also borrowed back archive pieces from customers who bought them at the start of the business and mixed them with new designs, a choice that gives the collection a lived-in authority. Robinson Pelham says it dates to 1996 and was founded by Chilton, Kate Pelham-Burn and Zoe Benyon.

The Summer of ’96 chapter brings in new lines called Nirvana, Meteor, Treble, Solstice, Boudicca, Gloria, Kinetic, Paragon, Arma and Duo, while existing bestsellers Daystar, Arena, Jupe and Utopia gain new additions. The clearest revival codes are easy to spot. Kinetic earrings curve around pie-cut diamonds, pink sapphires and emeralds. Nirvana leans into pink, turquoise and green enamel. Meteor appears as fringe drop earrings, bangles and bombé rings finished with baguette diamonds and gold beads. Solstice takes the form of pavé diamond globe bracelets that convert into chokers. Boudicca sharpens the look with sculptural ear cuffs, while Treble creates the illusion of three piercings in one pair.

That mix of bold color, 14ct yellow gold and practical design has long defined Robinson Pelham, which started as a bespoke London jeweler and now has a Chelsea flagship on Elystan Street, plus stockists worldwide including Goop and Marissa Collections. The brand has also used recycled materials and older vault gemstones in earlier archive-led work, which matters in a category full of vague sustainability claims. Here, the appeal is more concrete: pieces with enough presence for a night out, but enough ease to wear with a white shirt, a knit or denim the next day.