Robinson Pelham marks 30 years with nostalgic Summer of ’96 collection
Robinson Pelham turned 30 with Summer of ’96, a Mallorca-shot collection of enamel, gold and diamonds priced from about £545 to £20,980.
Robinson Pelham marked its 30th anniversary on May 26 with the launch of Summer of ’96, the first chapter in a year-long celebration called Bold Since ’96. The London jeweler is leaning into the year it was founded, 1996, and using the milestone to reconnect its present-day identity to the decade that shaped it.
The collection was built around the ease, energy and attitude of a 90s summer, with Robinson Pelham emphasizing bold colour, sculptural gold and its signature diamonds. Enamel, gold and diamond pieces anchor the range, which runs from entry-level bracelets and necklaces to high-ticket diamond designs. On the brand’s website, prices span roughly £545 to £20,980, a spread that makes the collection feel as much like a retail statement as a brand anniversary.
That range matters because Robinson Pelham has always traded on the tension between exuberance and polish. The company says its jewelry is meant to spark joy, and its roots are in modern British design with a bright, graphic sensibility that has long set it apart from more restrained fine jewelry houses. Founded by Vanessa Chilton, Kate Pelham-Burn and Zoe Benyon, the business began with bespoke and private commissions before opening its Chelsea boutique in 2012. Another trade account places its growth in starker terms, from a small bespoke salon in 1996 to a jeweler sold worldwide.
The new campaign, shot in Mallorca by Buzz White, gives that history a glossy summer frame, but the more interesting question is which late-1990s codes will actually endure once the nostalgia fades. In authentic 1990s pieces, collectors can look for the same visual language Robinson Pelham is resurfacing now: enamel used as a punch of color rather than ornament, sculptural gold with a confident profile, and diamond settings that read as sharp accents instead of all-over sparkle. Pieces from the era that still feel collectible tend to have a distinct maker’s mark, clean original condition and a silhouette that holds its shape without looking overworked.
That is where the anniversary collection becomes more than a celebratory reset. It tests whether the market still wants the decade’s playful shorthand, or whether true value remains in the original pieces that made those references feel fresh in the first place.
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