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Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2026 Sees Maximilian Davis Revive Speakeasy Era

Maximilian Davis sent Ferragamo into the speakeasy — think needle-punched nautical knits, textured nappa parkas with shearling hoods, and foiled velvet lamé slip dresses.

Mia Chen2 min read
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Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2026 Sees Maximilian Davis Revive Speakeasy Era
Source: wwd.com

Maximilian Davis framed Ferragamo Fall/Winter 2026 around the speakeasy as a social laboratory, folding sailor uniforms and migration stories into after-dark dressing. Hypebeast put it bluntly: "The speakeasy returns as a focal point and a locus of liberation where conventions of class and identity are disrupted." The show read like a night where rules blurred and silhouettes were allowed to breathe.

The collection tied personal histories to house history with deliberate clarity. Designscene and Schonmagazine traced the visual thread from Salvatore Ferragamo's move from Italy to the United States to Davis's family relocation from Trinidad and Jamaica to Manchester. Schonmagazine explicitly placed the presentation at Milan Fashion Week and described Davis returning Ferragamo "to the flickering shadows of the 1920s," a setting where sailors, socialites, and outsiders collided.

Design and construction leaned naval and utilitarian but refused literalism. Sailor uniforms "form a primary visual and structural reference," Designscene noted, while Hypebeast and L'Officiel USA documented the subversions: displaced buttons, undone fastenings, and deconstructed forms that suggested hurried dressing. Tailoring retained structured jacket shapes and button codes, yet details were nudged off-center so the uniform felt lived-in.

Materials were where Davis made the past feel tactile and modern. Nautical knitwear was needle-punched with chiffon to build unexpected dimensionality. Workwear parkas emerged in textured nappa leather with shearling-lined hoods, a repeated image across Hypebeast, Designscene, L'Officiel USA, and Schonmagazine. Hypebeast cataloged technical notes including garment-dyed organic cotton canvases, garment-dyed recycled nylons, and "aero sprayed" quilted leathers — a material toolkit that kept utilitarian intent intact while offering vintage patina.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

Eveningwear threaded the speakeasy mood through foiled velvet lamé and floral jacquard slip dresses, and draped gowns that referenced the "evolution of ruffles," per Designscene. Cocoon-shaped outerwear referenced couture structure and was layered over long-line gowns, delivering contrast between sheltering volume and fluid evening lines. L'Officiel USA captured that collision: "It’s imagined as a space where rules blur, and identities shift: where sailors, socialites, and dreamers all end up in the same room after dark."

Footwear and accessories bridged decades in specific, wearable moves. Hypebeast flagged a new pointed stiletto, a sling-back with a deep vamp inspired by a 1954 Salvatore Ferragamo flat, and sandals whose curvilinear details nod to the 1950s "shell sole" technique hybridized with a wedge silhouette. Menswear introduced elongated Oxfords with apron-stitched toes, a monk style secured by a Hug closure, and a minimalist bootie. New bags included a slim graphic silhouette fastened with a Gancini plate in three sizes, East-West Hug colorways, a woven calf leather Hug pouch, and a men's utilitarian cross-body pocket bag.

Davis summed the project as "viewing vibrant historical moments through the haze of history," a phrase that fits the show’s tactics: historical reference filtered until it reads like clothing you can move in. The result was unmistakable Ferragamo — a house archive and personal migration stories reframed into parkas, slips, and shoes that feel both rooted and ready for the night.

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