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Princess of Wales Embraces Pearls as Her Defining Jewelry Signature

From a 1980s faux-pearl vintage necklace to earrings gifted to Queen Elizabeth II in 1947, Kate's pearl choices reveal a jeweler's eye for meaning.

Priya Sharma6 min read
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Princess of Wales Embraces Pearls as Her Defining Jewelry Signature
Source: people.com

Pearls are, of course, a constant in Kate Middleton's wardrobe." Vogue's observation, published on March 9, 2026, the same day the Princess of Wales appeared at the Commonwealth Day Service at Westminster Abbey, reads less like a fashion note and more like a statement of royal intent. At Westminster Abbey, dressed in a royal-blue coat dress by her perennial favourite Catherine Walker, the Princess wore a necklace formed from five strands of pearls designed by Susan Caplan, and finished the look with the late Queen Elizabeth II's Bahrain Pearl drop earrings, described by Vogue as "crafted from a cache of seven rare pearls that the then Princess Elizabeth was given by the Hakim of Bahrain as a gift on her wedding day in 1947." The pairing of a vintage faux-pearl necklace with one of the most historically freighted pieces in the royal collection tells you almost everything you need to know about how the Princess of Wales thinks about jewelry.

A necklace with a documented life of its own

The Susan Caplan five-strand necklace has become the single most documented pearl piece in the Princess's recent rotation. According to Tatler, the necklace "hails from the 1980s, featuring faux pearls in graduating sizes that fasten with a Swarovski crystal clasp," and Susan Caplan's own website described it as "pure drama." Susan Caplan is a jeweller who specialises in collecting vintage pieces, which matters here: this is not a contemporary pearl necklace produced to approximate heirloom quality, but an actual artifact of 1980s jewelry design, acquired through the secondary market.

The Princess first wore it to mark Holocaust Memorial Day in 2025, a setting that lent the piece immediate solemnity. She has worn it on several occasions since: at the VE Day 80th anniversary concert at Horse Guards Parade, most likely in May 2025, where she paired it with matching pearl earrings also from Susan Caplan and a white bouclé and chiffon midi dress by high-street brand Self-Portrait. The combination of a vintage statement necklace with an accessible contemporary dress is a deliberate kind of styling, one that refuses to treat formal occasions as an excuse for head-to-toe grandeur.

Tatler noted that the outfit clearly resonated: the Princess wore the exact same look, necklace, earrings, and Self-Portrait dress, for the Order of the Garter celebrations a month later, adding only a new wide-brimmed hat by milliner Sean Barrett. Repeating a full outfit, including the jewelry, is a choice. It signals that the look has been considered and claimed.

Vogue (which describes the necklace as "five strands of pearls" without specifying the material) and Tatler align on the designer and the silhouette, though it's worth noting that Vogue does not use the word "faux," while Tatler and the style archive Katemiddletonstyle both explicitly identify the necklace as a 1980s vintage piece made with faux pearls. Until the palace press office or Susan Caplan directly confirms the material composition, both accounts deserve to sit side by side.

The Bahrain earrings: provenance as jewelry

If the Susan Caplan necklace represents the Princess's eye for vintage finds, the Bahrain Pearl drop earrings represent something older and more institutional. Vogue's provenance for the piece is precise: the earrings were made from a cache of seven rare pearls presented to the then Princess Elizabeth by the Hakim of Bahrain as a wedding gift in 1947. That origin story, a diplomatic gift from a Gulf ruler to a future queen, became a piece of jewelry worn nearly eighty years later by the next generation's most photographed princess, is the kind of continuous material history that makes royal jewelry worth examining closely.

Tatler's caption described the earrings as "Queen Elizabeth II's diamond and pearl earrings," which is a less specific characterisation than Vogue's named identification. The two descriptions are not necessarily contradictory; they may simply reflect different levels of research. Vogue's specific naming and provenance should be taken as the fuller account.

High-low instincts and the Leicester visit

The pearl story is not confined to formal abbey appearances. The week before Commonwealth Day, the Princess visited Leicester to celebrate the city's Indian community, where she was presented with a rose garland strung with pearls, a symbol of respect and honour in Indian culture. The garland was, in a sense, an unplanned addition to the running theme. Tatler's headline for the Leicester visit reads: "HRH High Street! Kate Middleton swaps heirloom jewels for Sézane earrings given to her by Prince William for day out in Leicester." The juxtaposition with the Commonwealth Day Service is instructive: on one day, the Bahrain Pearl drop earrings; on another, Sézane earrings from her husband. The pearl motif travels across registers without losing coherence.

AI-generated illustration
AI-generated illustration

A broader inventory

The style archive Katemiddletonstyle, which tracks the Princess's jewelry appearances in detail, lists the following modern pearl pieces she has worn, ordered from most recently worn:

  • Katherine James Pearl Earrings in 18ct Yellow Gold
  • Susan Caplan 1980s Vintage 5 Strand Faux Pearl Necklace
  • Mulberry Amberley Baroque Pearl Earrings in Gold
  • Monica Vinader Nura Pearl Necklace
  • Freya Rose Mini Hoop Earrings With Detachable Pearls
  • Mejuri Organic Pearl Stacked Hoops (flagged by the archive as a possible identification, not confirmed)
  • Balenciaga Pearl Clip On Earrings

The archive's curator notes that historic and royal pieces, including Diana's earrings and Queen Elizabeth's pearls, will be catalogued separately. The modern list alone spans price points from accessible brands such as Monica Vinader and Mejuri to the finely crafted 18ct yellow gold settings of Katherine James, making clear that the Princess's engagement with pearls is not a matter of defaulting to whatever the palace collection offers.

What the cultural moment adds

Vogue connects the Princess's choices to a wider revival. "In recent months, interest in pearl jewelry has gained momentum due to the Georgian and Victorian pieces worn in Emerald Fennell's Wuthering Heights, as well as the ostentatious designs that are so central to Netflix's popular Regency romp, Bridgerton." The on-screen appetite for period jewelry has clearly translated into a commercial and editorial one, and the Princess of Wales sits at the center of it, not because she is following the trend, but because the trend has arrived where she already was.

The documented sequence of appearances matters here. The Susan Caplan necklace's first outing was Holocaust Memorial Day 2025, long before Wuthering Heights and Bridgerton entered the pearl conversation at the pace Vogue describes for 2026. Her use of the piece predates and, arguably, parallels the revival rather than borrowing from it.

Why this approach to jewelry is worth understanding

What emerges across these appearances is a coherent jewelry philosophy: depth of provenance, deliberate repetition, and range without ostentation. The Bahrain Pearl drop earrings carry nearly eighty years of royal history. The Susan Caplan necklace is a piece of 1980s vintage costume jewelry, described by its maker as "pure drama," worn to one of the most solemn commemorations in the British calendar. A rose garland strung with pearls, presented by a Leicester community, fits the same visual language without any forward planning.

As Vogue concluded: "The Princess of Wales is proving that in 2026, pearls remain a timeless choice." The more specific point is that she is proving it through repetition, through range, and through a willingness to let a faux-pearl vintage necklace and a 1947 diplomatic gift sit in the same conversation without one diminishing the other.

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