Queen Mathilde and Queen Sonja Dazzle in Tiaras at Oslo State Banquet
A pearl tiara stolen in a 1995 Garrard heist and a 1926 Art Deco diamond diadem made for a Belgian crown princess were the jeweled stars of Oslo's state banquet on March 24.

Pearls have a way of carrying history quietly. At the state banquet hosted by the Norwegian Royal Family on March 24 in Oslo, two tiaras worn by queens from different nations told centuries of royal inheritance, wartime survival, armed robbery, and exquisite craftsmanship in the span of a single white-tie evening.
Queen Maud's Pearl Tiara was given to Princess Maud by her parents, King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra, when she married Prince Carl of Denmark in 1896; it is often reported that the tiara was commissioned from Garrard, then the official royal jeweler in Britain. Maud unexpectedly became queen of newly independent Norway in 1905 when her husband was chosen as the country's new monarch. The tiara survived World War II tucked inside Windsor Castle, returned to Norwegian hands after the war, and passed eventually to Queen Sonja. Then, in February 1995, it arrived at Garrard in London for cleaning, and three armed robbers broke into the shop on Regent Street and stole the tiara along with brooches and other small jewelry. While the original tiara was never recovered, Garrard created a replica, which was ready by the Norwegian state visit to the Netherlands in 1996.
It was that Garrard-made replica Queen Sonja wore on March 24, leading the procession into the gala dinner on the arm of Belgium's King Philippe. She paired it with a pale pink gown and gray lace bodice, the Drapers' Company Brooch, which was one of Maud's 1896 wedding presents, pearl drop earrings, a four-row pearl necklace, and a pearl bracelet. Her decorations included the sash and star of Belgium's Order of Leopold and King Harald's Royal Family Order. The Court Jeweller has called Queen Maud's Pearl Tiara one of Norway's "most important sparklers," a judgment the evening's photograph record did nothing to dispute.
Across the banquet table, Queen Mathilde of Belgium wore what The Court Jeweller describes as "the grandest tiara in the Belgian royal vaults": the Nine Provinces Tiara. Crafted in 1926 by Van Bever for Princess Astrid of Sweden, the piece is celebrated for its Art Deco elegance and convertible design, allowing for versatile wear. When Princess Astrid married Crown Prince Leopold of Belgium in 1926, the Belgian government gave the spectacular piece as a gift to their new Crown Princess: an Art Deco tiara of a meander base topped with eleven large round diamonds that represented the nine Belgian provinces, the then Belgian colony of Congo, and the Belgian Royal House. Further detachable diamond arches were added to the top of the tiara in 1934.
Leopold abdicated the throne in favor of his son Baudouin; when Baudouin married, Leopold gave the tiara to the new queen, Fabiola, who wore it on her wedding day. She handed the jewel over after Baudouin's death to be worn by Queen Paola, who, after the abdication of her husband Albert, gave it to Mathilde, the new Queen of the Belgians. Mathilde chose to wear it at the Oslo banquet in its most commanding form, with the detachable diamond arches raised to produce the full regal diadem rather than the simpler bandeau base. She completed the look with a champagne-hued Armani Privé gown and classic diamond ribbon and fringe earrings from her personal collection, pieces she has worn at major occasions including Harald and Sonja's joint 80th birthday celebrations in spring 2017.
The evening's jewelry extended beyond the two queens. Earlier in the day, at the welcome ceremony, Queen Mathilde had dressed in pink and worn pearl and diamond earrings that belonged to the late Queen Fabiola of Belgium. Crown Princess Mette-Marit of Norway, who did not attend the white-tie banquet due to health issues but made a surprise appearance earlier in the day, wore navy and red with a pearl and diamond brooch that belonged to King Harald's grandmother, Queen Maud of Norway.
Since the Nine Provinces Tiara is one of the biggest pieces in the Belgian royal family, it is only worn by the wife of the reigning monarch. That restriction gives Queen Mathilde sole claim to the piece for now, though she will continue to have sole use of the tiara until the day her elder daughter, Elisabeth, becomes queen; Elisabeth would be the first ever queen regnant in Belgium should the monarchy survive to her accession. The Oslo banquet, then, was a reminder that the most significant jewels in any royal collection are less decorative than they are documentary: archives you can wear, each one carrying its provenance into the room.
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